February 15, 2018
A collection of essays on the life and influences of pioneering chef Edna Lewis (1916-2006).Editor Franklin, a food studies scholar, gathers the thoughts of a wide variety of contributors, including John T. Edge, Alice Waters, Michael W. Twitty, and others. Known for her poignant depictions of Southern folklore, Lewis was not one to shy away from other people's misconceptions and prejudices. She made it her mission to combine food culture with sociopolitical issues, to interweave notions of racial tolerance and peaceful cohabitation in the dishes she served and in the stories she told. Franklin divides the book into three parts. In the first, essayists recall their first impressions of Lewis. In the second part, writers reflect on the impact Lewis has had on the sociopolitical climate and how both her writing and cookbooks greatly contributed to the dialogue. In the third section, contributors evaluate Lewis' legacy in today's world--Twitty writes, "my purpose here is to look at the life of chef Lewis as a continuum of a specific culinary and cultural legacy rooted in a particular regional and familial past." Franklin's laudable project sheds much-needed light on the significance of this singular culinary figure. "There is something about the South," wrote Lewis in an essay, "that stimulates creativity in people, be they black or white writers, artists, cooks, builders, or primitives that pass away without knowing they were talented." It's precisely that creativity that Lewis captured and embodied and that many of the anthology's contributors highlight throughout. Regarding Lewis' Taste of Country Cooking, Patricia E. Clark writes, "Lewis as subject and author of her own work is rendered with an intimate familiarity and a peculiar anonymity all at once." Franklin's work is a compelling examination of Lewis' identity that will appeal to food historians, racial studies scholars, and anyone seeking to learn more about Southern food.A fascinating, prismatic look at the legacy of one of America's most beloved chefs.
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April 15, 2018
Edna Lewis (1916-2006) was an African American chef and cookbook author whose The Taste of Country Cooking (1976) is considered a classic on the subject of Southern cuisine. Lewis grew up on a farm in Freetown, VA, and later went on to work as a chef in the Bronx, NY. She was also a vocal political activist. Food studies scholar Franklin (Tradition, Treme, and the New Orleans Renaissance) has compiled a collection of 21 essays by contemporary food writers such as chef Mashama Bailey as well as authors John T. Edge (The Potlikker Papers) and Michael W. Twitty (The Cooking Gene) to discuss their recollections of Lewis and her influence on American cooking. The essays are divided into three sections. The first focuses on the contributors' first impressions of Lewis. The second considers Lewis's standing in culinary history, and the final section is devoted to her contributions to today's culinary culture. The book concludes with recollections by Lewis's sister and niece. VERDICT A fitting tribute to a legendary chef, for anyone interested in culinary history.--Phillip Oliver, formerly with Univ. of North Alabama, Florence
Copyright 2018 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.
Starred review from March 1, 2018
Of all the great American originals, Edna Lewis (1916-2006) left a remarkable legacy. Often overlooked at a time when achievements of African Americans were routinely belittled or ignored, Lewis broke new ground in what became a major movement in American culinary history: farm-to-table cooking. From rural Virginia, she moved to New York City and become chef at Caf� Nicholson, frequented by a host of Manhattan celebrities. She produced a classic and influential cookbook, The Taste of Country Cooking (1976). This collection of essays by devotees of Miss Lewis, in which her contemporaries share their respect and love, serves as an appreciation of her life, her achievements, and her legacy. Alice Waters lauds Miss Lewis as an inspiration for her own cuisine. Megan Elias situates Miss Lewis within the grand history of black people moving out of slavery and into freedom. Celebrity southern chef Vivian Howard finds a soul mate in her predecessor. In a moving piece, noted food personality Francis Lam recalls a visit to Miss Lewis' unassuming Virginia grave. A few recipes appear, too.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2018, American Library Association.)