Two Chatty Cooks, One Iconic Dish and Dozens of Recipes--from Mom's to Mario Batali's
Starred review from December 19, 2016
Veteran New York Times writers Bruni and Steinhauer offer up a remarkably inventive and solid collection of recipes for one of America’s most popular comfort foods. Fittingly opening with a classic version of traditional meatloaf courtesy of Bruni’s mother, the duo explore the boundaries of all things meatloaf, incorporating different meats such as lamb, duck, tuna, and chicken with winning results. Traditionalists will find plenty to like here, and more adventurous cooks will appreciate the South African bobotie loaf, a lamb-based loaf incorporating tamarind paste, curry powder, raisins, a Granny Smith apple, and bay leaf–infused milk; Mario Batali’s multilayered stuffed meatloaf; and Bobby Flay’s complex Korean-style meatloaf with spicy glaze. Fun riffs such as a Swedish meatball loaf and a cheeseburger and fries loaf will bring kids to the table, as will chef Garret Fleming’s decadent macaroni and cheese, which will forever alter readers’ definition of this classic side. Liberally peppered with Bruni and Steinhauer’s snappy dialogue, this is a terrific collection that deserves a look from meatloaf lovers of all ages.
February 1, 2017
There are surprisingly few recent cookbooks devoted to meatloaf, one of America's favorite comfort foods. Perhaps this is because so many cooks stick to a family recipe for this dish, but some cooks may be ready to branch out with 50 new recipes compiled by two meatloaf-loving New York Times colleagues. Bruni (former restaurant critic & White House correspondent) and reporter Steinhauer (Treat Yourself) recognize that meatloaf is a highly customizable food worldwide. In this work, they share not only nostalgic, traditional regional recipes but also loaves for modern palates accustomed to flavors from around the globe. Included are contributions from famous chefs, food writers, and a few politicians. Among the recipes, beef, bison, lamb, pork, poultry (including duck), seafood, and venison are represented. Meatless loaves are here, too. Recipes for accompaniments and suggestions for using leftovers round out this offering. Chapters are introduced with a dialog between these wordsmiths yet only include line-drawing illustrations, unlike Cynthia Kallile's Meatloaf Bakery Cookbook which boasts photos of creative presentations. VERDICT Recommended for those needing additional or modern meatloaf recipes.--Bonnie Poquette, Milwaukee
Copyright 2017 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.
February 1, 2017
When two accomplished New York Times journalists decide to collaborate on a book, bet on snappy dialogue flying fast and furious, and an eminently accessible and reader-friendly narrative. And when that twinning centers on food and cooking, there's no room for pork. Or, in this case, perhaps a little. Former chief restaurant critic and now op-ed columnist Frank Bruni and congressional reporter Jennifer Steinhauer talk joyouslya back-and-forth begins every chapterabout childhood memories of meatloaf, ingredients, famous chefs' contributions (try Bobby Flay's Korean-style meatloaf with spicy glaze, or Mario Batali's stuffed meatloaf), and general dissertations about fillers and extras and sides. About 50 or so wide-ranging recipes are categorized by meat type, by contributors (see political postscripts such as U.S. representative Paul Ryan's obsession with venison), by other ingredients (tuna loaf, anyone?). Get it for an array of loaf dishes; keep it for the humor and insight: I come from a family so beefy and porky that Mom kept an enormous extra freezer in the garage just for meat (Bruni).(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2017, American Library Association.)